Sunday, August 31, 2014

T-shirt - Burda 151 03/2013

I made a t-shirt for my son. It's from Burdastyle 3/2013. I meant to photograph the pattern line drawing but I forgot. I am testing out the pattern for some merino ones I want to make for when my son goes to the U.K. for Christmas holidays. I wanted to check the size.

The sleeve with the label on it. This went together in about 30 min and I'd say it's a 1 hour job to trace, cut and sew. Easier than shopping. My son has a favourite t-shirt that is raglan sleeved (white with black sleeves) that he loves so I promised I'd copy it. He only likes plain t-shirts with no prints on them and really they are quite hard to find. The fabrics are from East Coast Fabrics.

I've just finished the edges with a three thread overlock and if my son wants me to hem it I will but I like the look of just the overlock and I like the curved hemline too.

I also made a lumpy pillow out of one of his t-shirts that he loves (ha, one with a print) but got too small. He loves it but it doesn't look quite so lumpy in real life. I just stuffed it with the insides of  an old pillow I had just replaced. I'm making some togs (swimmers for him at the moment too - boy he's getting a lot of stuff at the moment - back to me I think!)

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Ottobre - Autumn/Winter 2014

The new Ottobre is out. It's a really great issue. I haven't made too many things (a few not yet blogged) from my magazines but I will from this one I think. I really like a lot of the patterns this time. (I think that darker red on the cover is from shadows as it isn't on the actual cover).

The pattern sheet at a glance.

Love the dress on the right with those great pockets - looks much better than the solid colour one. I see this in scuba knit (but will Spotlight have any left?).

I really like the zip up sweat shirt and perfect for some wool stuff I have in two colours, one just a remnant and not enough for anything even simple (believe me I have tried so many different  styles and I just don't have enough fabric so mixing the two colours will be perfect).

I like this top (above) too. Hope if I make it, I don't look quite so frumpy though.

I like the shape of the blue dress (above) but don't know if I can pull this off.. Also like the top in the below photo, but again don't know if I can pull off the swing part of it. I love peasant blouses though and find them pretty flattering on a larger bust.

Their pattern sheet isn't one to be afraid of (unlike Burda's of which I have many aborted attempts at tracing just because I can't see the lines). The lines are clear, coloured and not over crowded - much more eye friendly.

I'm guessing if I do get around to making anything it will be used for about 2 weeks as today is 25 deg celsius and tomorrow is going to be 26, but it still is cool in the morning and afternoon.
What do you think? Anything take your fancy here? 

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Swimming rashie for the boys

Well this boy above will model it and the other boy will wear it. How fantastic that I don't have to beg ask for Alex to put it on and let me take a photo.

I got out my "Singer Sewing with an Overlocker" book that I got with my 4 thread Singer overlocker about 25 years ago (I also got a great travel carry bag for it too but I couldn't afford the differential feed which was a brand new feature then). (I also note that the book is "Sewing with an Overlocker" and not serger). I was going to scan the book about how to flat lock but basically you start with a three thread (one needle and the two loopers) overlock stitch that is balanced. Then you loosen needle thread tension 'generously' (mine was under 1 - the lowest or most loose setting), then tighten generously the lower looper thread and loosen the upper looper thread slightly. Then overlock with the knife and when you are done, just pull at the seams just sewn. I have used the 'inside' threads to show on the outside because I thought it was a bit more interesting, but the inside  looks kind of like an ordinary overlock stitch. I also used woolly thread (bought at the 2nd hand shop by chance) which goes on the lower looper. (I also used this making some togs and hemming a t-shirt the other day by threading the bobbin by hand and it made all the difference).

This photo above is a bit blurry (sorry). The sleeves have a band as does the neckline. The fabric is 50 spf (sun protection factor) lycra from Glitter and Dance in Mansfield here in Brisbane. They specialise in dance stuff and have loads of lycra and dance fabrics and also Jalie patterns and trims etc. They are very friendly and are quite a successful business that I recently read about in the Brisbane paper (I think it was?? - anyone remember?).  Anyway it was a remnant for $5 so this rashie at spf50 is a great bargain. All in all, this took me about 30 minutes to sew up and probably the same to trace and cut out the pattern. Easy!

Front on view. See how my other boy is so compliant! So many angles! So little resistance.. so pleasant!

This is the pattern. On the inside it's dated 1994. It has the adult suits as pictured above but also the children's raglan sleeve sizes as well so this was a great buy at $1 (albeit years ago). J & L Patterns are in Osborne Park, Perth, Western Australia but I'm not sure if they are still going. I couldn't find a website but did find telephone listings so maybe they are still operating. Anyone in the west in the know?

Now that this pattern and technique is proven, I will make me a rashie for summer. I hate buying them and may even try to make a zip up front one (a friend makes these for sale in beautiful fabrics and all spf rated so I may try to enlist some help. Incidentally she has an industrial coverstitch machine that sews beautifully but she'll still getting her head around it.)

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

It's a BOY!

Yesterday I alluded to something I bought at the 2nd hand shop ... here he is! I found this boy black plastic mannequin on a stainless steel stand. He was only $10 so how could I resist. He's a good boy, doesn't say much (well he has no head just a neck so I guess I shouldn't be surprised), never argues and will always display clothes I make for his fleshier brother with no grumbling. He's about the same size as my 10 year old so I guess I have twins! I like that the stand goes up one leg so I will be able to put the shorts on him to really show them off! What do you think? Could you have left him behind?

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Vogue 8774 jeans finished.... well, just about.

This is how the jeans are at the moment. They just need to be hemmed, the belt loops sewn on and a button or stud on the waistband.  They look really good; a lovely shape. I used a lovely polka dot waistband lining that was once part of a dress I bought 2nd hand (a Laura Ashley - the cotton is lovely and soft - I changed the dress from a dirndl style skirt with a point in the front to a boxed pleated skirt a couple of years ago but kept the scraps a it was so lovely).

All the photos are shocking... sorry, I couldn't get them any better. I took lots more... believe it or not these are the better ones! The zip isn't perfect but not as bad as it looks on the above photo. You can see on two photos that I snipped some inside threads and but it unravelled the sewing so I have to fix that up too.

Pockets don't look too bad (but the thread is definitely not grey as it looks above). Topstitching is OK but not perfect, good practice though. Big question is why isn't there a photo of me wearing them.... well because they don't fit. Not even close. I overlaid the Vogue pattern on the Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern (that fits me well) and the size 14 Vogue is like a 10 in the Simplicity (I made the 14 in the Simplicity). To get the same size on the Vogue, I have to make the size 18!!!! What!! I did measure the tissue against some jeans that fit well but loose and comfy and they were so close so I can't understand why there is such a difference. Oh well.

I've cut out a Simplicity from an aqua and white (vintage) houndstooth that I love but I can't find the instructions for it so will forge on with the fly instructions from somewhere else. I didn't really like the Vogue ones so will investigate some others. That's the only tricky part of those pants. I narrowed the legs to the width of the Vogue as they are a bit wide down the bottom. Before I start these, though I finished another Vogue 9080 sweatshirt; with the hood this time, and I am finishing some knit pants, a pair of boys pants (both need black elastic I will buy tomorrow) and a girls peasant blouse. Oh and a bought a great prop at the second hand shop for $10 on Friday but you'll have to see what it is at the next post.  

Monday, August 4, 2014

Vogue 8774 Jeans

Well I've started some jeans. Vogue 8774 of which there are a lot made up in blog land. I'm making them up in some vintage maroon corduroy that I found at a church thrift shop a few weeks ago. I have some nice summer weight denim I bought at Lincraft last year (or the year before?) but I just want to check the sizing with this wearable (hopefully) muslin. (Summer weight denim is probably heavy enough for most winter days here and probably ok for spring too but too hot in summer... I don't wear jeans in summer).

I checked the sizing against some new Esprit jeans I found at the secondhand shop for $10 a few months ago. Seems like they are straight size 14 - pretty close by tissue check anyway. I feel so '70's sewing these up. I remember making a skirt out of the very same fabric in the early '80's. Someone had made pants of some sort from this as this is made from the remnants  - long pieces along the selvage with obvious crotch seams. I had just enough to cut all the pieces out put the waistband I will have to piece with 2 pieces but that's easy enough.

This is where I am up to. I've basted the zip (on one side only so far) in but reading reviews last night, most people point out that Vogue have you put the fly on the opposite side to where most (all?) RTW jeans have them. I believe this is the 'women's side' but most RTW have them on the 'men's side' which is the universal side I'd imagine. This is probably for ease of production thereby reducing costs. So I'm not going to bother changing it on this pair... but I'll see if it annoys me enough to bother for the denim pair!

I went free hand with the back pockets and random too. I'm pretty pleased how these turned out. I just picked a fancy stitch on the machine and went for it. The pockets are a little out of shape because that was as wide as I could get on the scraps after cutting out the main pieces.  I see on the photos it looks like contrast thread but it isn't. I am top stitching etc but not with contrast thread. I didn't want to bother setting up another machine for this pair but will for the denim. I've already bought the thread from Trad's last week.

I'll just leave you with the photo of the Mandy Boat Tee. Sorry about the silly face and the big fold in the front of the top. It has a lovely sheen to it and it comfy to wear but it will only be used for school pick ups and drop offs as the hem is still a bit wavy and I feel it is too wide. I've made another one folding about 4cm from the centre front but DOH that makes 8cm so it made the neck a bit tight even for my pin head, and the sleeves sit up higher and therefore are a bit tight. I think however if I fold out only 2 cm and redraft the neckline (to keep the boat neck look) it will look and feel much better on. Don't like the look on the front of those white jeans.... you know what it is... I'm not going to write it but it's been noted for when/if I wear them again!

Friday, August 1, 2014