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Coverstitich HELP please !!!!


This the the Ottobre zip up sweatshirt I'm making. In the magazine it is made out of two colours but I am testing it with some merino terry backed nylon/lycra i.e. the merino is a terry loop on the wrong side with the right side being a nylon/lyrcra in a charcoal colour. I bought it at The Fabric Store for $8  per metre. It's great - wears well, is soft, spongy, really stretchy and warm. Washes a treat too. 


I wanted a contrasting zip but couldn't find one at my usual haunt of Trad's so shopped the stash and found a red one so decided I'd use the coverstitch (finally) to contrast stitch with red too. Ordinarily I really detest black (or close enough) with colours other than white ..... I'm not really sure why.... but I digress. I tested the three thread which I really like and it worked a treat on some lycra I had in the machine at the first and only test I'd done. Then I started on my panels but the middle needle thread kept breaking. I'm cutting this short. For about a total of 30 minutes of sewing I've either watched or read about threading and finishing on the coverstitch for about 4 hours. It's so frustrating. I've changed thread (sewing thread in the needles and overlocker thread in the looper as per the Pattern Review posts Belinda from the old blog Sew4Fun has recommended), I've changed tensions, and nothing I did worked for the 3 needles so I decided I'd just use 2 needles.



The photo below is the back which should have been cut on the fold but I didn't so I just overlocked it together. The fabric looks black but it's not. I haven't always got the coverstitching in the exact spot but it's my first time and overall I'm pleased with the results but not the process.


It still breaks the 3rd needle (when using only the 1st and 3rd needles) or the looper thread. Any tips anyone? I bought this machine 2nd hand but it was serviced in December so should work. The threads seem very taut between the spools and the start of the threading. 

Then to make it worse,  the overlocker threw a wobbly and one of the loopers jumped out. Is it just me and machines lately. I've spent way, way more time being frustrated, watching You Tube, reading tutorials and hints and unpicking than actually sewing. I want to get this finished for Saturday so if anyone has any tips I'd be grateful :) Anyone else have this much trouble getting something done?


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Comments

Sarah Liz said…
Sorry, can't help. I don't own a coverstitch machine.
26 June, 2015 09:57
Sewing Sis said…
I don't own a coverstitch machine either, but there is a sweet blogger that has lots of info on coverstitch machines! Check out Stitches and Seams; I am sure it will help you! Good luck!
26 June, 2015 13:28
Kirsty said…
I've got the Janome Coverstitch so a different machine but the solution might still work. The thing which made the biggest difference with my coverstitch was giving in and only using Gutermann thread for the upper threads then on the looper, I use Gutermann or Birch 1000m spools (if I'm running low) or wooly nylon. I initially tried overlocker thread or Birch 1000m spools when I first got my CS machine but it caused too much swearing. I've got some of the same merino/nylon terry from the Fabric Store and can't remember having major problems with it. Let me know what sort of thread you're using and I'll see if I can duplicate if you like? My dining table's covered in the overlocker and coverstitch machines at the moment so it's no hassle.
26 June, 2015 17:24
Summer Flies said…
Hi Kirsty. Thanks for the help. I have a good quality (but not Gutermann) thread on the needles and a good quality overlocking thread on the looper. (can't remember the brand but I don't buy cheap thread as it's ....). I read in something last night, can't remember where though, if this happens take the nets off the ones causing trouble and I did this and it seems to be working ok this afternoon. I haven't tried with 3 needles yet though as I've already started the feature coverstitch in two needles. I don't think it's the fabric as I've made some stuff from it before and it's easy to work with. I don't use wooly nylon very much and don't really know where to use it. I have only used it twice so far on other things and it worked ok. Thank you so much for the help. The brother is really annoying that it has such a small space to put the fabric/garment through. I have a little bit left of coverstitching to do when I put the collar on so hopefully it will go ok for that and then I'll play more and more with it. When school holidays are over I will do a lesson with sewing shop nearby and see if it's running properly. Here's to it cooperating for a bit longer.
26 June, 2015 21:43
Sue said…
The jacket will be great when finished. I don't own a coverstitch and my only advice is when things are going badly is to totally unthread, clean, oil, put in new needles and start again. Good luck with it.
27 June, 2015 14:46
Kristin at SunnySewing.com said…
I have the brother coverstitch and it's a love hate relationship. The left most needle always feels REALLY tight. I use mine on a 6, 6, 4 for the tensions. It likes to break needles if you don't thread it properly, too. It is hard for me to remember to thread from L to R, opposite my other machines ;-) I like to use a stretch 75/11 needle in mine too (schmetz) for any knits. Plus I use Gutterman on the needles and maxilock on the looper.

Good luck! Looks like a great jacket!
28 June, 2015 10:53
Kristin at SunnySewing.com said…
Oh, and I don't use the nets. They were putting too much stress on my thread.
28 June, 2015 10:54
Kyle said…
I don't have a coverstitch, but have you tried changing needles? sort of hail mary advice for any machine-related situation...

I'm sorry to hear you've had so much difficulty with the machine. It may be the machine itself, even though you've had it serviced. And I know what you mean about sewing frustrations--it can be SOOOOO frustrating I almost gave up on sewing 2 years ago, mainly because of difficulties with fit, but I think sewing is in my blood and I'm a glutton for punishment. Hang in there!
29 June, 2015 12:04
Sewingfunthings said…
It's looking good!
30 June, 2015 00:24
Kat said…
Check the thread is clicked into the disks. It makes a world of difference.
30 June, 2015 21:45
kathy said…
Debbie Cook of StichesandSeams has some good coverstitch advice - top menu area on her blog. I go to her first as I don't use my janome coverstitch often and I forget in between times.
I bought mine barely secondhand. It came with sample thread cones that gave me fits until I changed them out for Mettler and Guterman threads.
31 July, 2015 23:34
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